Introduction

An 8x8x8 LED Cube is a three-dimensional structure made using 512 LEDs arranged in the form of a perfect cube. Each LED can be controlled individually using an Arduino, allowing us to create beautiful 3D animations, flowing patterns, waves, rain effects, and text-like movements.

This project may look very complex from the outside, but if you follow the right method, correct measurements, and proper soldering steps, it becomes much easier and enjoyable. I have personally built this circuit many times, so this tutorial is written from practical experience, not only with theory.

We will complete this project in only two main stages:

Building the LED cube structure with perfect size and alignment
Building the circuit board and making all electronic connections

We will go step by step, without skipping anything, so let’s start with the most important part—the cube itself.

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Components Required -

512 × 5mm Diffused LEDs (single color of your choice)
Arduino Nano (Arduino Uno also compatible)
Custom PCB (or Zero PCB if making manually)
74HC595 Shift Registers ×9 (as per circuit design)
16 Pin IC Base ×9
NPN Transistors (2222A) ×16 (for layer control)
Current Limiting Resistors - 220 OHM
20-Gauge Copper Wire
Ribbon Cable
Male & Female Header Pins
Push Button Switch
Type-C Female Power Connector
USB Cable (Type-B or Type-C as used)
MDF / Acrylic Sheets (for jig and enclosure)
Heat-Shrink Tubes
Glue Stick / Hot Glue
3V Coin Cell (for LED testing)
Screws & Spacers

PART 1: BUILDING THE 8x8x8 LED CUBE STRUCTURE

Step 1: Selecting the Correct LEDs

For this project, we are using 5mm diffused LEDs.

Why diffused LEDs are best for LED cubes?

Diffused LEDs do not produce sharp light beams. Instead, they spread light smoothly in all directions, which makes the cube look soft, uniform, and professional. Clear LEDs create sharp dots, while diffused LEDs give a true 3D glowing effect.

LED Requirement:

Total LEDs needed: 512
Size: 5mm
Type: Diffused
Color: Your choice (single color recommended for beginners)

Step 2: Testing All 512 LEDs (Do Not Skip This)

Before bending or soldering anything:

Take a 3V coin cell
Connect LED anode (+) and cathode (–)
Check brightness and working condition
Test each LED one by one

Why this step is critical?

Once LEDs are soldered into the cube, replacing a faulty LED becomes extremely difficult and risky. Even one dead LED can spoil the visual effect of the cube.

👉 Only use 100% working LEDs.

Step 3: Bending LED Legs with Perfect Uniformity

To make the cube look straight and aligned, every LED must be bent in exactly the same way.

How to bend:

Use a homemade MDF bending jig (as shown in pictures)
Bend the anode & cathode leg round
Then bend the cathode (negative) leg at exactly 90 degrees (use plier)

Step 4: Preparing Copper Wires Properly

We will use 20-gauge copper wire to connect LEDs.

Cleaning the wire:

Most copper wires are coated with paint or insulation.

Burn the painted layer using gas fire
Rub the wire using sandpaper
Clean until shiny copper appears

This ensures strong solder joints.

Cutting the wire:

80 pieces × 18 cm (horizontal connections)
60 pieces × 21 cm (vertical anode columns)

Step 5: Making Copper Wires Perfectly Straight

Straight wires are very important for cube alignment.

Method:

Insert one wire end into a drill machine
Hold the other end firmly
Rotate slowly to straighten
Do this one wire at a time

This gives:

Clean structure
Better solder joints
Professional finish

Step 6: Creating the First 8x8 LED Layer

Preparing the MDF Frame:

Drill 5mm holes
Gap between holes: 22mm
Layout:

8 holes horizontally
8 holes vertically
Ensure diagonal measurement is accurate

This MDF frame ensures perfect spacing.

Building the Layer:

Insert 8 LEDs in one row
Place 18cm copper wire on all cathode legs
Solder neatly
Add next row of 8 LEDs
Repeat until 64 LEDs are connected

All LEDs in one layer share a common cathode.

Strengthening the layer:

Add two extra 18cm copper wires on both sides
Solder firmly

Step 7: Testing the First Layer Again

After soldering:

Use a 3V coin cell
Check all 64 LEDs
Replace faulty LEDs immediately

Once confirmed:

Carefully remove the layer using a large screwdriver
Do not bend or twist the layer

Step 8: Making All 8 Layers Identical

Repeat the exact same process for:

2nd layer
3rd layer
…
8th layer

⚠️ Every layer must be:

Same height
Same spacing
Same alignment

Patience here decides the final quality.

Step 9: Preparing the Vertical Support Box

Box Details:

Size: 5 × 22 × 22 cm
Material: MDF or Acrylic

Top Cover:

Drill 1.5–2mm holes
8 rows × 8 columns
Gap: 22mm

Insert 64 copper wires (21cm) and fix them with glue.

Step 10: Final Cube Assembly (Most Time-Consuming Step)

This is the most critical step of the entire project because here we convert separate LED layers into a perfect 3D cube. Accuracy, patience, and calm work are extremely important at this stage. Even a small mistake can bend the cube or misalign the LEDs.

Step 10.1: Inserting the First Layer (Bottom Layer)

Take the first LED layer carefully with both hands.
Align the anode (positive) legs of all 64 LEDs with the 64 vertical copper wires.
Slowly insert each anode leg into its corresponding copper wire.
Do not force the LEDs—if alignment is correct, It will slide smoothly.

Step 10.2: Maintaining the Correct 22mm Gap

To keep the cube dimensions perfect:

Place an MDF spacer (22mm thickness) under the first layer
This ensures:

Equal distance between layers
Proper cube height
Perfect visual symmetry

If the gap is not equal, the cube will look tilted or compressed.

Step 10.3: Soldering All 64 Anodes of the First Layer

Now begin soldering:

Solder each anode leg to its vertical copper wire.
Use minimal solder but ensure strong joints.
Check alignment after every few solder points.
Do not rush—this step takes time.

🔥 Tip:
If the solder joint is dull or weak, reheat and fix it immediately.

Step 10.4: Repeating the Same Process for All Remaining Layers

Repeat the exact same process for:

2nd layer
3rd layer
…
8th (top) layer

For each layer:

Insert anode legs
Use the 22mm MDF spacer
Confirm alignment
Solder all 64 anodes carefully

Step 10.5: Final Inspection of the Cube Structure

After soldering all 8 layers:

Check from all sides
Ensure:

Layers are parallel
Vertical columns are straight
No LED is tilted

If everything looks straight and symmetrical—

🎉 Congratulations! Your complete 8×8×8 LED cube structure is now perfectly assembled and ready for electronics.

PART 2: BUILDING THE CIRCUIT BOARD

Step 11: PCB Options

Option 1: Ready-Made PCB (Best Choice)

Use provided Gerber file
Order from PCB manufacturer
Clean, reliable, and easy but costly

Option 2: Zero PCB (Advanced Users)

Manual wiring
Very complex
Higher chance of mistakes

Step 12: PCB Assembly

Insert all components carefully
Follow circuit diagram
Solder cleanly
Use header pins

This board controls 512 LEDs efficiently.

DOWNLOAD CODE & CIRCUIT DIAGRAM

Step 13: Wiring LED Cube to the PCB

In this step, we connect the LED cube structure to the control PCB. Proper wiring is extremely important here because incorrect or loose connections can cause flickering LEDs, missing layers, or wrong patterns. Neat wiring also makes future troubleshooting much easier.

Step 13.1: Bringing Cathode Layer Wires Inside the Box

Each LED layer has one common cathode wire, so we have 8 cathode wires in total.
Carefully pass these 8 cathode copper wires inside the box through the provided holes.
Make sure the wires are:

Long enough to reach the PCB
Not bent or stressed

These wires allow the PCB to control each horizontal layer individually.

Step 13.2: Using Ribbon Cable for Clean and Organized Wiring

To keep wiring neat and professional:

Use a 10-wire ribbon cable
Carefully remove 2 wires from the ribbon
Now you will have 8 parallel wires, perfect for the 8 cathode layers

Step 13.3: Connecting Ribbon Cable to Cathode Layers

Solder each of the 8 ribbon cable wires to the 8 cathode layer copper wires
Double-check that:

Each layer has its own dedicated wire
No two wires are shorted together
After soldering, apply hot glue over the joints

Step 13.3: Connecting Ribbon Cable to Anode Layers

Solder each of the 8 ribbon cable wires to the 64 anode layer copper wires
Apply hot glue over joints to make strong connection
Connect Male header pins in every layers

Step 13.4: Adding Male Header Pins

To make the cube removable and serviceable:

Solder male header pins at the other end of the ribbon cable
Pass heat-shrink tube over each male header pins
These headers will plug directly into the female header on the PCB

Step 14: PCB Connection

Use Arduino Nano (Uno also works)
Connect:

Anode headers
Cathode headers
Connect USB cable to Arduino & to PC

Step 15: Uploading the Program

Open Arduino IDE
Load provided code
Select correct board type & COM port
Click Upload

If pattern appears inverted, swap anode & cathode cables.

Step 16: Push Button & Power Input

Push Button:

Mount on top
Connect parallel to PCB switch
Used to change effects manually

Power Supply:

Use Type-C female connector
Connect:

GND → GND
VCC → Vin

Step 17: Final Closing